Traditionally, pizza shells have been formed by pressing, kneading and stretching a ball of proofed dough by hand into a relatively thin shell with a relatively thick rim. Generally, efforts to automate this process of kneading dough have not been successful in that the devices involved do not accurately simulate the manipulation of the human fingers. Some automated devices simply flatten and squeeze the dough between a pair of rollers or between plates of a hydraulic press, so that any gas pockets in the dough tend to be flattened and ruptured. As a result, the pizza shell is not light and fluffy but flat, dense and heavy. In my previous, co-pending application Ser. No. 07/430,430, filed Nov. 2, 1989, now U.S. Pat. No. 4,936,686, for "Spherical Roller for Kneading a Dough Ball" I show a generally spherical roller including a cluster of balls on the outer surface to form spaced depressions or dimples as the roller is pressed and rolled over the dough ball. In another of my co-pending applications, Ser. No. 07/408,918 filed Sept. 18, 1989, now U.S. Pat. No. 4,944,596, for "Apparatus with Roller for Kneading a Proofed Ball of Dough" I show a cylindrical roller having closely nested balls over the surface thereof. In tests, such spherical and cylindrical rollers have worked well, but being made of a molded, rigid plastic with rigid integral balls, they are somewhat unyielding as they press into and work the dough.